Dear Fellows,
This month we are sending you an earlier than usual December issue with a bubbly guest contribution from Dr. Joseph Woo to help you get your Champagne ready for the Christmas and Millennium season: ------- K.H.
Things you would like to learn to say about Champagne but were too lazy to ask . . . . .
(or give it another name: Bluff your way through Champagne at the New Year's Eve party !)
The word Champagne (shaom-payn) was derived from the Latin term campania, originally used to describe the countryside just north of Rome. In the early Middle Ages it became applied to a province in north east France. Champagne, with its two champagne towns Rheims and Èpernay, was the first region to make sparkling wine in any formal quantity.
Initial wines from these regions did not sparkle: they were light, pinkish still wines made from the Pinot Noir grape. In the last half of the 17th century there was a tendency to stop fermentatin in the cold winters and then to start refermenting in the spring. This was considered something of a nuisance, as the resulting release of carbon dioxide was often strong enough to break the flimsy bottles. The effervescence of the wine was however enjoyed by wine dinkers at that time and the original French "methode champenoise" of making wine that sparkles was developed by the Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon at Hautvillers. The history of Champagne can be found here.
Champage contains 3 main vine varietals: the Pinot Noir, the Pinot Meunier and the Chardonnay. The Piot Noir tends to provide the basic structure and depth of fruit in the blend. The Chardonnay imparts certain austerity and elegance to young champagnes and the Pinot Meunier is unique in providing the wine with early maturing richness and fruitness.
Champagne is made from first fermenting grape juices from different vineyards, which are blended and then bottled with a mixture of sugar and yeast to make it ferment a second time. This produces carbon dioxide which, since it is sealed in, dissolves in the wine and creates the efferverscence, or fizz. Because the yeast forms a deposit (lees), the bottles are stored with their heads facing down and are turned occasionally, thus forcing this deposit to flow downwards towards the corks. This process is known as "riddling". Towards the end of this process, or keeping "on the lees", which takes anywhere from 6 months to 2 years, the necks of the bottles are placed in an icy-cold brine solution. This freezes the sediment which can then be expelled, the process known as "disgorgement".
Because the fermentation process has used up all of the sugar, the wine is now completely dry, verging on sourness and is then given a dose of a bit more sugar, a process known as 'dosage' (doh-sahj). Finally it is corked with special corks that seal it hermetically. The neck of the bottle is then encircled with wire-mesh so that the pressure of the gas in the bottle does not blow the cork out again.
Major houses also make single vintage champagnes from the produce of a single year. Vintage champagnes are intended to display the unique characteristics of the grapes from that exceptional year. 1985, 1988 and 1990 are examples of these better years. They always cost more, and sometimes much more than non-vintage blends. Vintage Champagnes generally age for 4-8 years on the lees before they are released. They develop greater complexity, length and depth of aromas. Their remarkable balance is due to an optimum harmony between the sugar content, the acidity and the special aromatic characteristics of the better-than-average grapes at harvest time. Vintage Champagnes are ready to drink as soon as they are purchased, although wine-lovers would keep them for another 5-10 years when they will develop an extra maturity and roundedness.
Blanc de Blancs are made exclusively from the Chardonnay grape while Blanc de Noirs are made exclusively from black grapes. Pink or rosé champagne is made either by adding a small proportion of red wine to the blend or, less usually, by letting the juice remain in contact with the skin of the grapes for a short time during fermentation. Names like 'Luxury', 'de luxe', 'Prestige Cuvées', "Grande Cuvées", "Grande Resérve", 'Imperial' or 'Gold', are used to denote without restrictions different styles, blend and quality of the wine from a same house.
There are different types of Champagne. Brut is the driest, and the "standard". If you want to get a "great" Champagne, go for a Brut. Extra-dry is less dry but Extra-brut is drier than Brut, with almost no sugar added. Sec is sweet, and Demi Sec is even sweeter. The alcohol content of Champagnes varies between 10.5% and 13%. For an interpretation of the information appearing on the label of a Champagne bottle please refer to the homepage of the Champagne Wines Information Bureau.
A bottle of gently bubbling sparkling wine will take several hours to go flat, for all the carbon dioxide to be released in this way. Most Champagne are sold with a pressure of between five and six atmospheres, a pressure which a normal champagne cork and bottle call withstand without undue risk. Champagne dinkers should also keep in mind that the natural carbon dioxide in Champagne is instantly absorbed by the wall of the stomach. This in turn hastens the movement of alcohol across the gastric mucosa. It is, therefore, no myth that Champagne can make one feel drunk more readily than other wines. Although Champagne and other naturally sparkling wines are traditionally served as aperitifs or at the end of the meal many feel that sparkling white wines described as Brut or Extra Dry can go with any meal. The truth is that Champagnes and other sparkling wines go marvelously with every dish except those served with a vinegar sauce. Pink sparkling wines go especially well with goose liver dishes, seafood and Asian cusines. Demi-secs are ideal for serving with desserts and cakes.
To open the bottle of Champagne, one should first slant the bottle at a 45 degrees angle away from guests, put a thumb on the cork and then untwist and loosen the wire mesh. Grasping the cork firmly, try to twist the bottle slowly and let the pressure help push out the cork, allowing a light and soothing pop.
Champagne should always be served at 7 -10 oC to make the wine most enjoyable. It should be served in tall, thin, clear tulip shaped or 'flute' glasses with the rim bent slightly inwards. Glasses should never be filled more than half way and ideally glasses should be chilled before being filled. Victorian saucer-shaped glasses are entirely out of fashion now.
Aromas detectable may be different from other wines. There may be aromas suggesting flowers and fruit. Some may resemble that of red fruits (strawberries, raspberries, cherries and red currants), citrus fruits (lemon, grapefruit), or
white flesh fruits (pears, apples), or perhaps the sweet smell of lime blossom, or the smell of fresh baked bread or biscuits (from contact with the lees). Together, these aromas provide indications of the three different grape varietals.
In Hong Kong, popular non-vintage Champagne such as Moët & Chandon, Charles Heidsieck, Taittinger, Lanson or Pol Roger generally retails at $350 to $450, and a Vintage Champagne from a good house and year from $550 to many thousands of dollars. A 1985 Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosé (one of my favourites) would cost around $650 and the prestigious 1990 Moët & Chandon Cuvëe Dom Perignon would be close to $1500.
Wine Connoisseur Robert Parker Jr. believes that the better Champagnes are always overpriced as the pricing "plays on the consumer's belief that a lavish price signifies a higher level of quality" and that "consumers often pay a lot just for the hand-blown bottle and expensive, hand-painted, labor-intensive labels". It is true that the Champagne market behaves a little differently from the ordinary red and white wine market in being dandified with more commercial elements.
From past experience, it is expected sales will further soar in the final 2 weeks of Christmas and New Year. At that point, the vintage stocks might be completely wiped out. If one really wants to stock up a few bottles for the New year (or cases for later), one should buy early. Prices may go up eventually. If one is merely thinking of serving up some "good" Champagnes at New year's eve, don't worry if the classical stock runs out, settle for the less well-known labels or the non-French for a change. They will likely be good. According to the Wine Spectator -- the state and quality of sparkling wines available in the recent few years is simply "fantastic" !
Champagne is a region in France, and only wines which come from this region can properly be called "Champagne". Similar drinks from California, Germany, Australia and the rest of the world should be called "sparkling wines". Sparkling wines may be described as mousséux or crément in French, espumoso in Spanish, spumante in Italian and sekt in German.
Non-vintage Champagne is made from harvests of several vintage years and vineyards in the same region. The blend (cuvée) can be made up of 20, 30 or even more wines from the 3 grape varietals. The blending formulae and techniques will determine the style and quality of the different wines from that producer.
When purchasing Champagne the first thing to keep in mind is that those which come from any of the great houses is all good, whether from a vintage year or not. The popular top quality Champagne producers include Bollinger, Charles Heidsiek, Krug, Lanson, Laurent Perrier, Louis Roederer, Mercier, Moët & Chandon, Mumm, Perrier-Jouet, Piper Heidsiek, Pol Roger, Pommery et Greno, Taittinger and Veuve Cliquot-Ponsardin. To say that one is better than another is not so much a reflection of quality as it is merely to show a preference for the style and character of one or another.
Champagne is very vulerable to poor storage, so buy from a shop with a brisk turnover. If you don't have an electric cellar, for short term storage, put them in the vegetable bin of your kitchen refigerator.
The qualities of a good Champagne include:
Good structure and balance: with a perfect combination of alcohol, sugar and acidity.
Harmony: Just the right proportion of the three varietals which will complement each other's distinct characteristics.
Roundedness: texture that glides smoothly on the palate. The nose and palate are also in perfect balance.
Radiance and freshness: flavorful, bustling, mature and yet fresh.
Here I am quoting comments and ratings for popular non-vintage Champanges from Wine Connoisseur Daniel Rogov:
Moët & Chandon, Brut Imperiale, n.v.: This wine is almost as good as its reputation would have us believe. Always light and perfectly dry, many like its almond-like flavor. Score 90.
Pol Roger, n.v.: Definitely top class and another of my personal favorites, this non-vintage Champagne is rich crisp, clean and stylish. The wine is perfectly dry, well balanced and has remarkably long lasting bubbles. Score 90.
Laurent-Perrier: One of the best, with bold, assertive flavors of toasted almonds, a lively level of fresh acidity and a texture that is both firm and rich. A kosher version is available that is equally good. Score 90.
Perrier-Jouet, Brut: With its flowery, fragrant elegance and the feel of unripe cherries, this is a fresh, crisp, delicate champagne - definitely first class. Also keep an eye out for the "Belle Epoque" vintage champagne from this house (1988 score 92). Sold in bottles that have an embossed Art Nouveau flower motif, the wine is even worth the high prices asked for it. Score 89+.
Mumm, Brut Rosé, Cordon Rosé: If pink champagne is your passion, this is one of the most charming, dryest and consistently satisfying Champagnes you will find anywhere. Score 88.
Piper Heidsieck: Another popular favorite, this fresh, very dry wine manages to find just the right balance between fruitiness and acidity to make it complex and refined. Also available in a kosher version which is every bit as good as the non-kosher. Score 87+.
Lanson: Light, flowery and easy to drink. Score 86.
Charles Heidsieck: Sweet, fresh and fruity medium body give it an appreciative audience. Unlike many
Champagnes that rely heavily on Chardonnay grapes, Charles Heidsieck contains 85% of black Pinot Noir
grapes and only 15% of Chardonnay, thus making it somewhat lighter and softer on the palate. Score 86.
Mumm, Cordon Rougé: a consistent world wide best seller. The wine is delicate and creamy. Light and, especially in the last decade, could be lacking in character. Score 84.
Pommery & Greno: One of the dryest of all Champagnes, this wine is enchanting partly because it is yeasty rather than fruity. the non-vintage wine is good but a bit too bland. Score for the n.v. wine, 80.
Quoted here also is the Champagne Vintages Rating Chart (1975-1993) from the WineSpectator Magazine in October 99:
1993
Potentially very good*
Drink or hold
1992
Good, but few vintage bottlings*
Drink
1991
Fair quality; few vintage bottlings*
Drink
1990
Fine balance and full flavor
Drink or hold
1989
Extremely ripe and generous
Drink or hold
1988
Outstanding; beautifully balanced
Drink or hold
1987
Acceptable, but few vintage bottlings
Drink
1986
Very good quality; lean in style
Drink
1985
Superb balance; great structure and flavor
Drink or hold
1984
Unexceptional quality; large harvest
Drink
1983
Good, pleasant Champagnes
Drink
1982
Rich, complex, with abundant flavor
Drink
1979
Classy, elegant, aging well
Drink
1976
Ripe, opulent year
Drink
1975
Bold but balanced Champagnes
Drink
A shortage of Champagne has been predicted by exporters and consumers as the Millennium draws near when wines from the better houses and vintage years are being mopped up by all kinds of buyers. Many wineshops in the United States are saying they are already running out of stock. Some are apparently saved up for the Year 2001 celebrations. Cruise lines have bought up some entire vintages, in order to give every single passenger a bottle of a certain type.
Copyright © 1999 The Hong Kong Academy of Medicine